Alright folks..
We are back to a land of internet connection and great curries.
Time for you to put the kettle on as this post is a whopper... I have been writing the blog each day while we have been away... Lots of tales to tell... so get a cuppa and enjoy the read. The story begins after a long long journey involving a ferry, a taxi, a bus, a flight, another flight, and a taxi to stay a few hours in Kuta...
Day 1 - We left the
hotel in Kuta and jumped into a taxi to head for Serangan Harbour… down
backroads and dirt tracks we finally found the jetty where we were supposed to
meet the boat. A little rib collected us and transferred us to The Adelaar, our
home for the next 10 days.
Once we boarded, we were given a quick tour of the ship, and
waited till all the guests had arrived. By 9am we “set sail” heading 120 miles
towards Komodo National Park. This was the first part of the journey, and would
take almost 24 hours to complete. We spent the rest of the day unpacking our gear in our room, and chilling on the deck.
We made it to Setonda Island at 7am the next
day, which is an area outside the National Park.
Day 2 – Waking at the sound of the anchor dropping in 70
metres of water, we headed upstairs to find some croissants and fruit. On the
boat, they call this “Small Breakfast”. We had a nibble and had our first dive
(the check dive) in calm waters to make sure all our equipment was working. The
vis was nice, and just diving somewhere other than Koh Tao, with different
species of marine life felt very nice and refreshing.
After an hour, we ended
the dive, and was picked up by the rib.
Returning to the boat, we then had “Big Breakfast”… realizing the
running theme is Eat, Dive, Eat, Dive, Eat, Dive, Eat, Dive, Eat, Drink, Sleep.
2 more dives at the same location, and then a trip over to
Setonda, to have a walk about the place. Jen and I zoomed up the side of the
hill, to find a nice viewpoint to check the place out. Then it was time to get
moving again. The boat had more miles to cover, and it was another 18 hours of
travel time to our next point, inside the Komodo National Park.
Day 3 – Waking early, we set of for a 7am dive at Gili
Lawalaut (meaning “small island facing the sea”) Stronger currents today,
showed weakness in other divers. If this was Koh Tao, I would have been
screaming blue murder at the shit buoyancy and the generally “grab what you
like” attitude. I think our ideals just don’t prevail anywhere else in the
world… and eventually, just like Koh Tao, it will be too late, and the damage
will be irreversible. I have attempted to block out the generally shit standard
of diving, to not ruin my holiday…. But that doesn’t mean I can’t take video of
the poor diving… video coming soon!!
After the first dive, the boat cruised around the bay into
“Current City” to find better conditions. Two further dives at Batu Bolong and
Tatawa produced a bunch of turtles and a couple of shark…
Then, the boat moved to our location for the night. It was
our first night dive… with the conditions in the water a few degrees lower, the
guide put on so many layers of neoprene, and Jen and I were still in our 2mm
Rash vests {HARDCORE!!}.. A 1 hour dive produced some amazing little critters…
from Ghost PipeFish to Flambuoyant Cuttlefish (2 cm).. it was crazy and cool… I
had a bunch of tag alongs in the shape of 6 or 7 Juvenile Moorish Idols, no
bigger than my thumb, keeping me company throughout the dive swimming around my
hands and face (trying to get protection by using the big fish… me….!) ..
Time for
dinner and then bed!!
Day 4 – An early morning walk on Komodo Island to see the
famous Komodo Dragons up close. They are dangerous creatures due to their size
and strength and their particularly poisonous bites.
For this reason, we had 2
rangers with our group for a walk around the World Heritage site. We saw a few
dragons, and they are big boys. The rangers had sticks to keep them at bay, and
we took a few photos, asked a few questions and had a leisurely walk around the
site.
Then it was back to the boat for dive at Pink Beach. This dive was sadly
low visibility, green water and strong current which made it a difficult dive
for one of our group, who is a pensioner… from the beginning you could see she
was struggling and the dive guide spent
most of the dive trying to help her through it… bless her. Next dive was at
Fish Market, with just me, Jen and the dive guide. It was damm cold… 25
degrees. That may not sound cold, but when you spend 1hr in the water, it gets
chilly… Lots of cool small stuff, better visibility, and strong currents and
surge made it quite fun I thought! In the evening, we went for a sunset / night
dive where the boat was moored for the night. A small wreck at 15m took most of
our time to look around, but Jen was struggling with Suncream in her eyes all
dive, and when we finally came up… her eyes were super sore… It took a couple
of hours for the irritation to subside. Bedtime and a movie was the answer.
Day 5 – Getting up this morning, we were all excited to be
diving at Manta Alley. This site, as I am sure you can guess, is famed for its
Manta Rays. With a choppy sea and surging water it was looking like it might be
a difficult dive. We dropped in and bolted to the bottom to where the cleaning
stations are located. Immediately we saw Mantas…. Too many to count in fact.
Jen and I were like kids in a candy store. Even though the visibility was
pretty crap, and the surge was massive… we were filming like crazy, and at the
end of the dive I said to Jen “That’s the best f*#$ing dive I have done in years”..
So we went again!! Another dive at Manta
Alley, filming the same multitude of Mantas!
Time to move East to Horseshoe Bay which was 3 hrs at full
speed. It was nap time while we travelled, after the exhausting Mantas dives.
Once we arrived at Horseshoe Bay, we went diving on the world famous Cannibal
Rock. Visibility again was less than desirable, and also other divers in the
water made the whole dive rather unpleasant. I ended up filming a guy laying on
pristine coral reef taking pictures while wedged in to the coral reef… I
hovered there for over 3 minutes filming his actions… and then lost my temper,
deciding to smash him in the head with my camera housing, which I think
probably gave him a good lump on his head…
At this point Jen came over and gave
me some good advice… lets go up. Well done Jen… in my red mist it could have
scaled into something much worse. I came up and questioned the dive guide about
how this is allowed to happen in a National Park…. Sadly, the reason is what I
have heard so many times before… People just don’t care… there is more interest
in customer service than conservation…. Money talks… It’s the same the world
over, and I wish I had the power to change this, but all I can do is post
videos that get forgotten after a week…
Day 6 – Waking up early (every morning!) it was time for a
quick cuppa and out on to dive the Yellow Wall of Texas. Still green and 24
degrees made for a chilly dive that wasn’t too spectacular. After an hour, we
returned to the surface, and as the rib picked us up, we spotted wild Dolphins
a few hundred metres aways. We spent the next hour trying to entice the pod
near us by using the boat to go very fast which attracts them. We eventually
managed to get them interested, and both Jen and I were hanging on to the side
of the rib being dragged through the water at high speed with Dolphins just a
few metres from us…
Wow they make so much noise… I think Jen was nearly in
tears from the experience, and I managed to get some video, whilst holding on
for dear life, and swallowing gallons of water… what an amazing experience though.
After 20 or so minutes, the dolphins got bored and went their own way, leaving
us to return to the boat for our breakfast. It was time to move on to find
better water, so while we ate breakfast, the boat travelled North.
After a few hours, we arrived at “Secret Garden” We dropped
into the water and the dive was worse that Koh Tao in Monsoon. Jen and I spent
the whole dive laughing because it was so bad.
Even though the visibility was bad, we still had fun just
messing around and giggling underwater. After we came up, we decided to cancel
the night dive since the conditions were so bad, and have a bottle of wine
instead.. I think that the dive guide was probably quite relieved...
Day 7 – Moving North early to find warmer blue water, the
boat left early and arrived back at Batu Bolong, which we had dive a few days
before. The conditions had improved and we dropped into some beautiful clear
water. Using the protected side of the reef, we had a nice easy dive, until the
tide decided to turn. We started to turn back the way we came, and without any
warning I felt myself shoot upwards, spinning and tumbling while going at a
very fast rate to the surface. It started when I was at 25m and in the space of
only a few seconds I was at 15m… going way too fast in this upwards flowing
current. Everyone else, was fine… the small jet stream that I was in seemed
only to grab me! Anyway, as soon as I noticed, I started kicking downwards like
crazy, while dumping all my air from my BCD. After a few frantic seconds of
spinning around and upside down I managed to get down and grab hold of a rock.
Then the dive guide managed to boot me full in the face.. Thanks for that icing
on the cake.! The sudden impact of the experience had exhausted me, and I spent
the next 10 minutes getting my breath back and carefully returning along the
reef to where we had started. After the dive ended Jen told me how scary it
was, watching me in an invisible washing machine… all good experience if you
ask me!
We returned to the same dive site again… the other divers
stayed on the boat to rest. So Jen and I had a nice, more relaxing dive since
the current had calmed down. We saw an array of creatures… from turtles,
sharks, moray eels etc… a nice dive.
We had another dive later that day, which was on a 3km long
reef. It was scheduled to be a drift dive from one end to the other. As soon as
we hit the water things went awry. The water was only 6m deep and we were
flying along at a super speed. Instead of a coral reef, all we could see was
rubble. Jen and I got separated from the main group, and spent the remainder of
the dive getting shallower and shallower. We eventually cancelled the dive
after 30 minutes while cruising along at high speed in 1.9m of water. To our
relief, the main group also had the same
issue and had surfaced a few hundred metres away. Sometimes, plans just don’t
work… and I guess if you are diving in some of the most unpredictable and swiftest
currents in the world, you just get used to it.
So, on to the night dive which was at a place called “Wai
Nilu”. A real awesome 70 minute dive finding loads of cool little critters. Jen
was bitten on the ear by a worm, but no big deal. It was a really good dive,
but by the end of it I was utterly freezing!
Dinner and bed.
Day 8 – The boat left its mooring at 5am to fight the
currents and head further North to Castle Rock. We arrived at 8am and jumped
into super clear blue water. So clear, that Jen and I hardly noticed that we
were so deep, almost hitting our maximum depth for our Nitrox gas mixes. It was
all good though, and we cruised around using the currents to our advantage,
filming small sharks and schools of fish… another top dive… great way to wake
up in the morning.! A couple of hours later we did the second dive at Crystal
Rock where as soon as we hit the water, we knew this dive was going to be
tough.. From the start, we were battling the current to the dive site, spending
lots of air just trying to get in a good spot. Then we turned into the current
and off we flew.. I used my air in 30 minutes (usually I have enough for a 60
minute dive at least). Not much to film since I was unable to use the camera in
these kind of conditions. Surfacing from the dive, we both had a nice headache
from the effort used during the dive, and returned to the boat for Lunch and a
nap. After a couple of hours, it was time to dive El Toro (also known as The
Shotgun). This was a leisurely dive up until one point, where the current flows
through a cut in the rocks and throws you out the other side. This was a wild
ride, with me being pulled up from 16m underwater to 3m in only a few seconds,
while going sideways at an alarming speed.
Even if you know the basics of
diving, you would understand that an ascent like that is extremely unsafe due
to nitrogen bubbles in your body. With my computer going crazy, beeping like
mad, telling me that whatever was happening was not good, I could do nothing
but go with the flow. I watched Jen go through and disappear, and then I
followed being tossed and turned over rocks and eventually was spat out on the
other side of the reef. Swimming down a few metres to calm my computer down, I
was pushed along the reef by the still very strong current, and turned a corner
to see Jen and the dive guide hanging on to a rock. Barrelling towards them at
high speed, I turned and grabbed hold of a small rock which stopped me (almost
wrenching my shoulder out of its socket!). Once everyone confirmed that they
were ok, we let go and drifted for the rest of the dive.
This day was probably the most taxing day for diving, the
weather closed in later that day, and we couldn’t move the boat, so Night dive
was cancelled. Both Jen and I were in bed by 8pm… !
Day 9 – Up at the crack of dawn, with the boat now able to
move since the weather had improved. We headed to Golden Passage, a very
chilled out dive with lovely visibility. A few rays and a turtle gave us some
good footage hopefully, and after 70 minutes we surfaced to some yucky weather.
Another storm and big waves.. The boat needed to move, so dive 2 was cancelled
while the boat tried to escape the big waves and headed North. After a few
hours of sailing, we arrived at Serangan. A volcano in the middle of the ocean,
still venting some steam.
Diving at the side of it was unusual. Where we would
normally see bright sand, everything was black… from a previous eruption… Lots
of cool things to look at, and a very different kind of dive.
Back to the boat, and they were putting the sails up, so it
was time for a photo opportunity before the boat set sail yet again for the
night.
Day 10 – The final day of diving. Now out of the Komodo
National Park area, we arrived at Angel Reef. A nice chilled easy dive and its
neighbor Little Angel was the final dive of the trip. Nothing spectacular, just
nice and relaxing. Then it was time to dry out our dive gear and head back to
Bali. 18 hours boat ride later we arrived at port, and began our journey back to Thailand!
xx
SD